The Lake Champlain Islands...
The Land of Surprises
It is now almost four-hundred years since the
discovery and early settlement of the Lake Champlain
Islands, and while the much-heralded 400th anniversary
is still a few years away, by following venerable old
Route 2, you have no need to postpone the celebration!
Get a drop on the nation and let the party begin -- NOW!
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If you have yet to experience the
Lake Champlain Islands, you are certainly about
to enter the “Land of Surprises.” If coming
from the mainland and the south, your first
surprise will be encountering a sandbar which
separates the greater Inland Sea portion of the
lake from the outer Mallets Bay region. |
Until the turn of the 20th century, the islands that
lay ahead of you were isolated from the mainland much of
the year. Eventually, the sandbar was raised and lined
with wonderful red rocks, giving access to the islands
on a more regular basis. The current sandbar and,
indeed, the historical one as well, passes through a
bird sanctuary and wildlife refuge, and it is not
unusual in the least to see Blue Herons, Osprey nesting
and various types of ducks.
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Looking to the south, one can see
the mouth of the Lamoille River and the delta
habitat, as well. Birders find this area to be
of great interest, as do hunters in season. |
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South Hero Island is the first island in the chain
that you encounter along Route 2. The island was
originally inhabited by many of the Green Mountain Boys
after the American Revolution, due to some land
speculation by Ethan Allen and friends. For those
unaware of the fact, Lake Champlain is the sixth largest
freshwater body in the United States, only to be outdone
by the Great Lakes themselves. Stone houses dot the back
roads of the island, as do early apple orchards, a
staple of the region due to the gentle climate fostered
by the lake effects phenomena. That same temperate
environment introduced the cultivation of grapes at a
small South Hero vineyard, Snow Farm, where a varied
venue of free entertainment is offered on the vineyard
grounds Thursdays during the summer months. (For times
and dates, visit Snow Farm on the web at
www.snowfarm.com.) Parasailing, wind-surfing, canoeing,
sailing, horseback riding and a multitude of young folks’
camps from the last century abound. The lay of the land
has proven most beneficial to world-class cyclists, many
of whom train here during the season.
Keeler Bay and Grand Isle Village are the next two
towns located on South Hero Island. The quaint villages
are home to some early antiques shops and one
exceptional flea market. The antiques shops offer, at
more than fair prices, the best the area has to offer
and are as eclectic as the area itself.
For a wonderful boat ride on the lake, you might
consider taking the Grand Isle Ferry over to Plattsburg
on the New York side, though for a more leisurely trip,
it is possible to rent boats from one of the many
marinas in the area.
Grand Isle boasts the Hyde Log Cabin, which is said
to be the earliest extant log cabin in the country.
Administered by the Historical Society, it is open most
days during the season and gives a great look into the
life-style of native islanders and the Hyde family in
particular, who, as late as 1955, were still living in
the structure. Directly adjacent to the Hyde Log Cabin
is the newly situated and recently restored one-room
schoolhouse.
After crossing one of the last true drawbridges in
the United States, you enter North Hero, Vermont on
North Hero Island. I believe it was Kipling who stated
that the view from City Bay was one of the world’s
delights. The village itself overlooks the lake and
offers lodging at two rather spectacular properties.
Shore Acres is just that—vast lawns going down to the
water’s edge, tennis, golf and a driving range with
horizons towards the Green Mountains and the Inland Sea.
I might add that the food is fairly spectacular at the
lodge, as well.
In the middle of the village is the venerable North
Hero House, a true Vermont Inn brought back to pristine
condition by its new owner, who is fortunate enough to
have the means and the great taste to support the
completion of the task of restoration. Meals on the
porch or cocktails on the patio will leave an impression
unmatched elsewhere.
In July, the world-famous Lipizzan Stallions perform
at Knight Point State Park, as they have elsewhere in
the world since the 17th century. Breathtaking in and of
themselves, if possible, they are made even more so
having the lake as a backdrop to their own perfection.
Isle LaMotte, the least populated and most remote
island, can be reached by another causeway after
crossing from North Hero Island to South Alburg. Isle
LaMotte was settled by Jesuits and was the site of Fort
St. Anne in the 1600s, and the shrine of St. Anne now is
situated on the spot where Samuel de Champlain once
landed. Almost spiritual in nature, pilgrims come to the
shrine by the thousands every summer, and explore the
island in the process.
In addition to the vast beauty of nature, Isle LaMotte
also possesses one of the earliest coral reefs in the
world. Many millions of years old, the reef is now
opened to the public with walking trails and nature
hikes. Hidden away at the end of the island is a
restaurant called RuthCliff, which is certainly worth
the visit. There are, as well, a limited number of rooms
available lakeside.
From here we reach the mainland once again via Route
2 and Alburg, Vermont. The entire town is on the western
shores of Lake Champlain and offers golfing, fishing,
cottage rentals, antiques shops and the close proximity
to the Canadian border.
North of Alburg, Route 2 crosses the Korean War
Memorial Bridge into Rousses Point, New York and points
west.
While only a scant forty miles in length, the Lake
Champlain Islands have much to offer. In the 19th
century, they represented an escape to a way of life
that was fast disappearing in the more urban areas. In
the 21st century, their appeal is even more universal.
The islands have always been slow to change, perhaps
due to the indigenous character of the local
inhabitants, and in no small way, this feature has made
the islands “The Land of Surprises.”
Enjoy your visit and may the Lake Champlain Islands
be the elixir to this generation that it was to the last
generation and before.
Article submitted by Prof. Rene
Vallee
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